Created between 1630 and 1640, the Retiro was gifted by the Count-Duke of Olivares to King Philip IV as a recreational space for the Court.
This secondary residence, which included the Buen Retiro Palace (Palacio del Buen Retiro), was then located outside Madrid — though not far from the official Royal Palace — but its coolness and wooded surroundings quickly became prized.
The Buen Retiro Theater (Teatro del Buen Retiro) hosted the greatest theatrical performances of the Spanish Golden Age. The large pond, which still exists today, was used for naumachia (in short, mock naval battles) and aquatic shows.
The park is now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it’s easy to see why as you stroll through it.
The park houses a large rectangular pool in front of which stands an impressive monument dedicated to Alfonso XII of Spain.
The Crystal Palace (sadly under renovation during my visit — I did my best to hide the nearby crane) is a remnant of the 1887 colonial exhibition, when it served as a greenhouse for the flora and fauna pavilion of the Philippines (Spain’s last colony) before becoming an exhibition space.
Built by Ricardo Velázquez Bosco on a Greek cross plan, the Crystal Palace is made almost entirely of glass, supported by a metal framework. Its dome reaches 22 meters in height, and its design was inspired by the structures of Joseph Paxton, architect of the Crystal Palace in London.
The park can be accessed through several gates. The entrance via the Felipe IV Gate offers a baroque style and a view of the Parterre of Philip IV, the French garden of Retiro Park.
While the Retiro Park is lively, the Cecilio Rodríguez Gardens are filled with calm and serenity, as they are surprisingly less visited despite their obvious beauty. Flowers, French-style gardens, pines, grapevines, and peacocks inhabit the space for our greatest delight. It is, in fact, my favorite part of Retiro Park.
Retiro Park, which also features a rose garden, an endless number of statues, and a multitude of cafés, is a truly delightful place to wander.
November 13, 2026
