Six kilometers long and one kilometer wide, the impressive island of Tavolara dominates the Gulf of Olbia in Sardinia.
Its steep limestone cliffs shelter a nature reserve that also includes the surrounding waters and a high relief that peaks at 565 meters with Monte Cannone. Since 1962, these cliffs have also safeguarded a NATO radio station, whose installation forced most of the population then inhabiting the island to relocate.
Tavolara seen from the sky
Tavolara seen from the sea
The point with the Pope’s rock
Tavolara and its clouds turning above the island
Once a haven for pirates, Tavolara enters modern history by declaring itself a micronation called the Kingdom of Tavolara.
Let’s rewind.
The island remains uninhabited until the arrival, in the mid-1830s, of a Corsican-Genovese shepherd named Giuseppe Bertoleoni, who settles there. Settle he does – along with the two sisters he married – to the point that King Charles Albert of Sardinia grants him the title of King of Tavolara in 1836.
Indeed, Giuseppe’s discovery of golden-toothed goats living on the island caused quite a stir – enough for King Charles Albert to travel there himself to see these strange creatures (whose golden teeth are actually due to their diet of lichen and seaweed).
Charles Albert is hosted by Giuseppe, who introduces himself as the island’s King, and after three days of what may have been quite merry feasting, the Sardinian King is said to have declared: “You truly are the King of Tavolara!”
Giuseppe’s son succeeds him in 1845 and reportedly obtains a document officially recognizing the kingdom of Tavolara – though the document remains missing to this day.
This lack of documentation doesn’t dull the curiosity of the world’s elites: Queen Victoria even sends a court photographer to capture a portrait of Bertoleoni for her gallery of ruling families. The photo is displayed at Buckingham Palace with the caption: “The smallest kingdom in the world.”
Paolo II succeeds his father in 1928 but hands over regency of the kingdom to his aunt Mariangela while he is abroad. Unfortunately, when Mariangela dies in 1934, Italy declares itself heir to the Kingdom of Tavolara. Paolo II continues to assert Tavolara’s sovereignty until his death in 1962 – the same year the NATO radio station is established.
Paolo II’s children have continued to claim the throne. In 2002, following the return from exile of Vittorio Emanuele, the son of the last King of Italy, Tonino appeals to him to have Tavolara’s sovereignty recognized once more – but to no avail.
Let’s disembark in this kingdom thanks to a boat that came to pick us up from our boat so that we can have lunch in all simplicity.
Antonio, known as Tonino, owns the Da Tonino restaurant, while his sister Maddalena owns the neighboring La Corona – the only two restaurants on the island (I personally chose La Corona on my skipper’s recommendation, and it was perfect).
August 29, 2026
