EXHIBITION – WEAVING, EMBROIDERING, EMBELLISHING

The exhibition presented at the Palais Galliera until 18 October 2026 – “Weaving, Embroidering, Embellishing – The Crafts and Trades of Fashion” – showcases the savoir-faire that has quite literally enhanced fashion since the 18th century.

This exhibition is the first in a series of three intended to highlight the craftsmanship of the often little-known artisans of fashion who work behind the great names of haute couture houses – whether embroiderers, feather workers, floral ornament makers, lace-makers, or jewellers.

Flowers serve as the guiding thread of the exhibition. Indeed, they constitute one of fashion’s most enduring motifs, transcending centuries from the 18th to the 21st century, notably in the work of Dior, Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga.

The exhibition features more than 350 pieces, including garments, fans, textile samples, jewellery, shoes, and bags, allowing visitors to fully appreciate the meticulous craftsmanship of historic ateliers (Lesage, Hurel, Pinet) as well as more contemporary ones (Leblanc), whose names are not necessarily familiar to the general public.

The exhibition – it must be said – is sponsored by Chanel, which has acquired and brought together many fashion artisans within its Métiers d’Art subsidiary. I admire Chanel’s commitment to preserving complex forms of craftsmanship that may be only marginally profitable by today’s capitalist standards, yet I often wonder how these (now) subsidiaries manage to negotiate fair pricing when their primary client is their parent company – Chanel itself.

The exhibition, in celebrating preservation, stops short of addressing the asymmetries of power and valuation that now structure the very survival of these métiers.